Sandboxes and Squat Toilets
29 Feb 2012 4 Comments
The weather is struggling against a disturbing tendency to be bone-chillingly cold. Sometimes it’s successful, and we have a patch of warmth accompanied by humidity that makes the buildings sweat. When the weather is winning, Athena and I spend some time on the kindergarten playground before going home. Athena likes the sandbox the best. It’s not really a box at all – it has what we referred to in Design 101 as an “organic shape,” black slats making a gracefully curving shelf around the white sand. The other day, it was warm enough for a post-school session at the playground. Athena sat squarely in the middle of the awning-protected sandbox, gleefully digging with her hands, patting the sand into shapes: a bed for her dolly, a wall around the bed. While she patted, inadvertently filling her hair and shoes with sand, a team of five other children perched on the black-slatted shelf along the perimeter, careful not to get sand on themselves or in their shoes. Each wielded an arm-length shovel with the dexterity of children who eat with chopsticks. They were digging a hole with great concentration and efficiency, moving as much sand as they could manage with each scoop. As I watched, I wondered idly what they could possibly be digging for – they’re already in China.
One of the children diligently excavating was suddenly struck by the immediate need to pee. She sprang from her perch and ran under one of the slides sprouting from the side of the climbing equipment. In one fluid motion, she deftly combined the maneuver of pulling her pants down with going into a squat. And then she was back on the edge of the sandbox, shovel in hand, the interruption unnoticed by her comrades. I uneasily hoisted Athena’s backpack from where it was resting at my feet and put it on the bench beside me.
The kindergarten classroom where I pick Athena up every day is clean and cheerful, filled with toys that encourage the development of reason and fine motor skills grouped along the child-height shelves in colorful baskets, and furnished with little chairs and tables arranged neatly on the tiled floor. Colorful foam mats cover the floor in an area geared towards honing gross motor skills. It looks like a kindergarten classroom one might see in the States. Until you go into the restroom. One day, while busy on the playground after school, Athena was struck by the urgent need to pee experienced only by small children and pregnant women. Being American and all, she went off in hot pursuit of the restroom. I followed her into her classroom, then through the washroom, to a room with two tiled troughs lining adjacent walls. One had a picture of a boy above it, and the other – the one with partitions that were not so much for privacy as to give the children something to balance themselves against while squatting – had a picture of a girl above it. Athena made expert use of the facilities, narrating the whole process, and finished by proudly showing me how to step on the lever at the head of the trough to release a flood of water through the contraption.
This was all particularly stunning in light of the toilet woes we dealt with when we first arrived in Shenzhen. Early on, I would find myself trying to coax Athena into one of the open stalls in the bathroom at Book City, restroom attendants looking on, expressions of bemusement playing across their faces. Athena, perhaps after a trying day of dealing with the trough at school, would resolutely refuse to have anything to do with a squat-toilet and stoically wait (sometimes upwards of 10 minutes) for one of the two sit-toilets in the Book City bathroom. Admittedly, the squat-toilets at Book City are a little intimidating. Whoever came up with the idea of automatically flushing squat-toilets has probably never had the unpleasant experience of the automatic flush doing its thing before they were done doing theirs.
These days Athena is rather put out by the fact that I don’t let her pee wherever she’s standing when the urge hits her. Frequently, she points out another child a few feet away, casually answering nature’s call. She now chooses squat-toilets, even automatically flushing ones, over sit-toilets. I’m thinking that hiking with Athena won’t be any problem when we get back to the States.
Christmas in Hong Kong
20 Jan 2012 7 Comments
I don’t know why, maybe there’s a romantic sound to it or something, but I wanted to go to Hong Kong for Christmas. Another one of those, “It seemed like a good idea at the time,” sort of things. Nathan, my bus driving, photo-taking, film-making friend, needed to pick up some film that he had dropped off in Hong Kong earlier in the week, and we were planning to go to a nunnery afterwards and enjoy the ethereal sound of chanting floating over the tranquil grounds. Things started off peacefully enough, after a lazy Christmas morning at home.
The photo place was closed when we first arrived, and we wandered around a bit looking for lunch. We wound up in an Indonesian restaurant, after a sales critter, speaking comfortably good English convinced us of the great bargains to be had. We took an elevator to the eighth floor and it opened right out onto the restaurant. The restaurant was tastefully put together in deep purples, dark woods, and gold fringes. Athena proceeded to have a minor meltdown. We slowly coaxed her into the booth we’d been seated at. The Indonesian waitstaff smiled toothily at us and looked on with mild interest. Once Athena had calmed down a bit and agreed to sit next to me on the booth, we ordered, with the patient assistance of the waitress, who described in completely incomprehensible English what the dishes on the menu were. We had an incredible meal, despite having little or no clue what we were eating. None of us had ever had Indonesian food before, and now I intend to eat more of it every chance I get.
There was a narrow alleyway that had been turned into a shop just off the road we walked up and down to get to and from the photo place. It seemed to be run by a woman and her husband. Fruit in styrofoam boxes, bottles of water, soft drinks and chips lined the alley walls on low plywood tables. On one side of the entrance to the alley, the woman stood by this little metal stand that had two waffle irons, and a pitcher of batter perched on it, with some evil looking tongs hanging off of its side. Athena wanted to buy cherries, but having no ready means of washing them, and not wanting to have to carry them around all day listening to her caterwaul about not being able to eat them RIGHT NOW, I persuaded her to be content with a waffle-thing. We watched the woman coat the iron with batter, shut it, turn it. Steam escaped. She opened the iron and skillfully loosed what looked like a bit of bubble wrap made out of waffle batter using the evil looking tongs. Athena was quite pleased with it.
After we’d picked up the photos, Athena informed us that today, Christmas Day in Hong Kong, was the day, preordained by the powers of the universe at large, that Athena was going to get her new shoes. Not being entirely aware of what we were in for, Nathan and I said to ourselves, each other and Athena, “OK, we’ll get your shoes, and then we’ll go to the nunnery.” Thus began the shopping expedition that, only by some Christmas miracle, didn’t end with Nathan hopping on the next stateside-bound plane out of Hong Kong.
What Hong Kong on Christmas amounts to is a colossal sale day. First we wandered around in a mall that we could not persuade Athena to leave for a painfully long time. There was every indication that this mall had absolutely nothing catering to the under-five set. We went to another mall and I asked the concierge where to find children’s shoes. We were directed to this monstrous complex known as Harbor City. Imagine all of downtown Seattle as a shopping mall. Now imagine each square foot packed with 13 people, all taking full advantage of the sales. This was Harbor City. Our crowd surfing began in earnest as the daylight receded and we were thrown into a dusky grayness. Lines of people waited outside of Gucci, and other designer stores. Streams of people moved forcefully inside the malls, and once caught up in a stream it was difficult to get back out. Somehow we managed to make it down into the labyrinthine children’s section, where we found a Stride Rite. Athena got her two pairs of shoes.
It was as dark as it ever gets in Hong Kong when we emerged into the open air feeling shell shocked. No nunnery for us. But the terminal for the Star Ferry was at hand, so we rode across Victoria Harbor to Wan Chai, looking at the Christmas lights, and marveling at how choppy the water was.
After a ride on the tram, sating the needs of two transit geeks, we stopped at a Starbucks for a blood sugar boost and then began the journey home. Athena spent most of the ride home playing her version of Rock Paper Scissors with Nathan. Athena would say, “Rock, paper, scissors,” and then watch to see which one Nathan would put down before selecting her own winning hand shape. Then she would laugh mischievously and say, “Let’s play again.”
Christmas lights!
Waxing Pathetic
13 Jan 2012 4 Comments
My legs were painfully red, but still attached and mostly hairless after the two women were done. The pot of wax, which had entered the room quite full, was nearly empty. The concept of a bikini wax was completely foreign and repulsive to them, which was just as well. I can’t imagine that the heat lamp method would be any more effective there than it is on one’s legs.
Athena asked if she could have her nails done, and the technicians graciously complied. She picked out red for her fingernails and purple for her toenails. The bottle of purple polish defied all attempts at opening it, and the technician presented Athena with two different colors to choose from, in bottles that would open. Athena was so pleased with herself for getting her nails done by somebody other than her mother, that she put up no fuss about it. They gave us little cups of tea and took lots of pictures of Athena.
The Haven of Hong Kong
12 Jan 2012 3 Comments
In the midst of NaNoWriMo and the genesis of the never-ending sinus infection, I got the undeniable urge to get the hell out of Dodge. I wanted to be among Friends of the capital F variety (as in Quakers, for those of you who don’t spend Sundays sitting in silence), and I wanted to have a day off from Mainland China. I decided we would attend the Hong Kong Monthly Meeting of Quakers. Athena and I got up early on a Sunday morning, loaded up the pink Walmart stroller, and set off for the Metro station. I had planned the trip out on the computer, and thought I knew what I was doing and how long it would take to do it. Things were going along fine until they weren’t anymore and Athena was throwing a sort of continual fit of the “I’ve been dragged out of bed too early” variety, and I managed to miss a stop, and become generally flustered. Athena had chosen this day to experiment with the effects of biting me, and was hanging from my hand by her teeth while striking other passengers with her purple polka dotted umbrella.
We were on the right train now but we were running half an hour late, and I was struggling to keep my head from blowing right off. Julian, the clerk of Hong Kong Monthly Meeting, was going to meet us at the station at 10:00. The stress of the situation was mounting in my snot-clogged mind, and by the time I had disengaged Athena from my hand and wrenched the purple polka dotted umbrella from her grasp I was fighting back tears of frustration and general despair. A woman standing next to me, who had boarded the train at the same stop we had, asked me if I was okay. She spoke with an American accent, and had two children with her. “You look like you’re about to cry,” she said, not unkindly.
“That’s because I am,” I said, and promptly burst into tears.
She gave me a hug.
This was not a moment I was expecting to have in the constant hustle and anonymity of Hong Kong, and it was immensely comforting. We talked for the rest of the train ride. She and her husband have five children and attend The Vineyard. They had been running an orphanage somewhere in China up until last year, and are now working with an aid group in Hong Kong. We got off the train at Central together, and she pointed us toward the right exit for Statue Square, where Julian would have been waiting for us forty minutes earlier. I had detailed directions to the Meeting, which is held in the David Kwok Room in the annex of St. John’s Cathedral, in an email from Julian. I carefully read the email on my iPhone and we set off. Athena was somewhat wigged out by what had transpired on the train and not wanting me to burst into tears again, was on her best behavior for the time being. The next time I looked down at my phone to confirm the directions in the email, the email had gone with no hope of retrieval. All that was left of it was a title in the trash. This left us at the Cathedral without much of an idea of how to get to the David Kwok Room. We went into the cathedral bookstore and asked the teenager behind the counter if she knew where the David Kwok Room was. She was sorry, but she didn’t. We wandered around the cathedral. I was trying not to feel frantic and failing miserably.
When I was just about to give up, we stumbled across the annex and there, on a little plaque, was a sign for the David Kwok Room. I bustled Athena and the pink Walmart stroller up what seemed like never-ending flights of stairs, parked the stroller next to the door of the David Kwok Room, took what I could of a deep breath through my painfully congested sinuses, and went through the door.
The room was silent. I took an empty seat in the circle and tried not to sniffle too loudly. Athena proceeded to rummage around in the backpack for snacks and coloring gear. A boy about Athena’s age sat quietly on a couch outside of the circle. I couldn’t quite get my breathing back to normal, and my nose was dripping pitifully. I took out a tissue and pressed it to my nose. Tears worked their way out of my tear ducts. I felt noisy, and sweaty, and gross. Anything but centered.
After all hearts were clear, the tea and coffee emerged and people chatted with each other. Julian introduced himself to me, and mercifully overlooked my tearstained and snot-streaked face. Athena and the boy, Julian’s son JohnJohn, began to play wildly with the cushions from the couches, after having spent the Meeting casting shy, sidelong looks at each other. It rapidly became apparent that Athena and JohnJohn are cut from the same cloth. A group of us went out to lunch at a nice Vietnamese restaurant. Athena and JohnJohn sat next to each other, and kept themselves amused by blowing bits of coconut juice into each other’s hair and sloshing peanut sauce all over the tablecloth. I sat between an American man, who has been living in Hong Kong for well over a decade, and a visiting professor from England. Julian, JohnJohn, Athena, and Jessie, JohnJohn’s mother sat across from me.
Listening to these guys talk was thrilling. I am used to hearing people use presidential administrations as time markers, as in, “Oh, that was during the Reagan years, when ….” Or, “I remember when Kennedy was in the White House, and ….” These guys were using Chinese history as their marker: “Strange times, that was during the Cultural Revolution.” Or, “Oh, after Mao but before Deng.” Julian has been in Hong Kong for verging on two decades. “So you were here for the changeover,” I said, excitedly. “Ah, yes, I was here for the Hangover,” he said, and chuckled. The American described being in Shenzhen during a tour of China he went on as a graduate student in the ’70s, “It was all rice paddies.”
After lunch, Julian and Jessie invited Athena and I to join them for their Sunday outing with JohnJohn, which we happily did. First there was a stop at a coffee shop, the appeal of which was based solely on their offering of blue vanilla gelato. Athena and JohnJohn ate this with gusto, sharing a waffle cone bowl of it. And then we went to the zoo, which is free in Hong Kong. To get to the zoo, we went up the world’s longest escalator. (No … really. It is the world’s longest escalator.)
At the zoo, JohnJohn asked his mother for a Fanta. Athena went over to the stand where Jessie had bought the Fanta and noticed that they had the same kind of Lifesaver popsicles we had gotten on our previous expedition to Hong Kong. She was very excited, so I got one for her and one for me. JohnJohn, who had contentedly been slurping away on his Fanta, caught sight of Athena with her Lifesaver popsicle, and exclaimed, “Mummy! Mummy! I want a colorful ice lolly too!”
JohnJohn managed to get quite a bit of his colorful ice lolly drizzled down the front of his shirt, and it was deemed necessary that they go back to their apartment for a change of clothes. Athena and I were invited to join them. We all piled into a taxi. Athena and I were ushered up to their rooftop garden, which Julian tends with great devotion. Pots of roses and bougainvilleas and plants that I don’t know the name of (being botanically rather illiterate) line the walls of the roof, creating a little oasis in the urban jungle. Athena was exhausted, so she cuddled up on my lap while we watched JohnJohn ride his new bike around and around the palm tree that serves as centerpiece to the garden. The children had chocolate milk, and we drank tea and munched on nuts and dried fruit for a snack.
I needed a haircut and had been planning on stopping by the place in Causeway Bay where Billy works his magic. Julian said that there was a salon just underneath the apartment, and that, as he needed a haircut himself, we could take the kids and go down there together. Which we did. Athena and JohnJohn terrorized the hairdressers, corralling all of the stools in the hair-washing room and locking the bathroom door with the key still inside, while Julian and I had our hair cut. It was fantastic.
Athena and I left for Shenzhen that night feeling restored. I had been nearing the end of my rope here. Frustrated with teaching, and parenting, and the day-to-day difficulties presented by living in a country that runs on little pieces of paper and red-inked rubber stamps. It was a reality check of the best kind.
Nogogo
07 Jan 2012 4 Comments
“Hello, White-knee?” She speaks in a husky voice with unintentional Valley Girl overtones, and without waiting for an answer she continues, “This is Helen from Nogogo.” I manage a sort of salutary grunt while experiencing a flashback to being called “Whitey” by my sixth-grade classmates, most of whom were African-American, after they discovered that my first name is Whitney. Helen goes on to tell me that they are out of Frosted Mini-Wheats but they’ve got a bunch of Banana Nut Cheerios, or that they don’t have the Progresso Chicken Rice and Vegetable soup but they do have Tomato Basil soup, wouldn’t I like to switch to that? I get these calls just about once a week, when I order from Nogogo, Shenzhen’s answer to Amazon Fresh. Athena and I don’t use cow’s milk, and Nogogo is the easiest way to get hold of fortified soy milk, so when we’ve been eating dry cereal for a day or so, I go online and order.
I look forward to my weekly chats with Helen. Last week she called me three times, making discovery after discovery about the unavailability of various items in my order. When we order from Nogogo, I usually get chocolate cupcakes for Athena and me. They are sold as “Chocolate Muffins,” but there is nothing muffin-like about them. So last week I ordered the chocolate muffins and after a while, Helen called. “Hello, White-knee?” She drawled, “This is Helen from Nogogo.” She told me they could only send one chocolate muffin my way, and wouldn’t I like to also try raisin muffins? Oh, sure, why not? She called back fifteen minutes later, “Hello, White-knee?” The routine started again. We negotiated about cereal for a while and she hung up. Five minutes later my phone rang again. “Hello, White-knee?” I was in near-hysterics at this point, and wanted to echo her accent and cadence back with “Hello, Hell-ahn?” but refrained. It turned out that they didn’t have any chocolate muffins, and only two raisin muffins. I said to send them on over.
Later that night, Athena and I were sitting in the apartment watching my bus-driving, photo-taking, film-making friend, Nathan, who was here visiting from Seattle, scorch some rice for dinner, when the outer metal door of my apartment rattled fiercely. I opened the door to the Nogogo delivery guy for our enthusiastic exchange of Hellos and Nihaos. He handed me the groceries, I handed him the money, and there was a flourish of Bye-byes and cheerful waving.Nathan, Athena and I set about investigating the raisin muffins. They looked like they were trying to crawl out of their wrappings, blobs of sickly yellow not-quite-muffins forming strange Kewpie-inspired swirls that reached out to us imploringly. Nathan looked disturbed, and Athena vehemently declared that she wasn’t going to eat one of those. We ate dinner with them sitting on the table out of the same compulsion that makes one stare at the snakes in the reptile house. After finishing dinner, Nathan gingerly tore off a very small piece of the “muffin” and handed it to me to try. I hesitated and then, deciding to get it over with quickly, popped it in my mouth and chewed. It tasted like a very plasticky, eggy yellow cake and contained no hint of raisins. Watching my reaction, Nathan quietly set the piece that he had torn off for himself back on the table.
Nathan left for Seattle the next day, leaving his raisin muffin untouched on the kitchen counter. I sat down with it, determined to find out if there was any reason to call it a raisin muffin. I gallantly ate through to the very bottom of the little sickly yellow cake and discovered five of the tiniest raisins I’ve ever seen. I am looking forward to the return of the chocolate not-remotely-a-muffin.
The Never Ending Sinus Infection
08 Dec 2011 9 Comments
There is a rapidly expanding family of cockroaches living in my laptop, giving new meaning to the idea of one’s electronics being bugged. I think they must like the warmth the computer provides, especially now that the temperature has actually dropped. It has been sampling the 40s at night for the past few days, providing an explanation for the quilted pajamas and electric blankets I saw on our last journey to Walmart. The bugs trip around on my computer, scurrying beneath the keys, trotting out of the fans as they fire up. I squish some of them. Some of them are too fast to catch up with. When Athena is awake and watching she points at them as they meander up the screen, “Bug, Mom, bug! Squish it! Squish it! Squish it!” This is when she is not busy building what she tells me are apartment complexes for the bugs to live in out of clothespins or purposefully dropping a bit of her dinner on the floor so the bugs won’t get too hungry. When I spill something, she says, “Oh, don’t worry about it, the bugs will get it,” like I used to tell her when we were living in a house with dogs that really would come and get it. The bugs probably don’t bother me as much as they should. I find them kind of fascinating.
On the eve of the launch of NaNoWriMo, I launched into what seems to be a never ending sinus infection. I am no stranger to sinus infections, and frequently I can get over them by rinsing my sinuses out and avoiding foods with milk. But this infection dragged on through all of November, and all hope of squelching it on my own vanished. With prompting from my mother, who looked like she was maybe going to crawl through the Skype connection to throttle me if I didn’t get a move on, I faced my fears of medical treatment in general and going to a Chinese hospital in particular, and proceeded with a visit to the doctor. I asked the Amazing Ayi for help on Monday, not being in any way up to deciphering the process on my own. Athena came with us, getting to satisfy her inexplicable and frequently expressed desire to go to a hospital. The AA called the Beijing University Hospital before we left the apartment. They said that they weren’t giving out numbers for appointments anymore, so we flipped through my copy of The Comprehensive Shenzhen Pocket Guide (which has handy sections on pretty much every aspect of expat life in Shenzhen) until the AA spotted an acceptable hospital to try. She called the Second People’s Hospital of Shenzhen, and they said that yes, they were still giving out numbers. We piled into a taxi and were off.
The hospital was teeming with people. A man walked by me with his neck completely wrapped in gauze sticking up from his stripped hospital pajamas. He looked like a Dr. Seuss character. We went to the registration desk and the AA gave them a form with my name, gender, and chief complaint on it. The registrar’s reluctance to believe that I am a woman sent the AA and I into a bout of hysterical laughter. Athena was quite taken with the nurses in their cute uniforms. They have not abandoned the starched winged affairs of the variety worn by my grandmother when she graduated from nursing school in the 40s, though the nurses here sport uniforms in pastel pink and blue, and some of them wear big red sashes with yellow characters emblazoned on them a la Miss America.
I paid the registrar roughly US$1.00 and we were sent to the Ear, Nose and Throat department where we took a number from another winged nurse and sat down to wait. I watched other patients wandering by carrying printouts of pictures that had just been taken of their ears, noses and throats. The AA looked more closely at the ticket that the winged nurse gave us and we moved to some seats by the door of the examining room I’d been assigned to.
We went in after another patient tottered out clutching pictures of her ear, nose and throat. The AA told the doctor that I have a sinus infection. The doctor motioned for me to sit down. I did. She pulled a reflective metal thing that looked like a miniature satellite dish with a hole in its middle over her eye, scooted forward, put some instrument up my nose and took a look. Then she looked at my throat. She grimaced, shook her head, and said, “How long?” “A month,” I answered. Her grimace deepened into a scowl. She made a few notes on my chart, wrote a prescription for a killer course of antibiotics, and told me to come back if I wasn’t feeling better in a week. We went to the cashier and I paid roughly US$40.00 for my antibiotics. I then watched as the AA negotiated the lines at the pharmacy, behind a bank of windows adjacent to the bank of windows the cashiers sit behind. I noticed that other sick people had come with someone else to help them make it through the lines, too. You have to be very hawkish about getting your order into the pharmacist, as your place in line doesn’t necessarily guarantee that you’ll get a turn at the window if you’re not aggressive about it.
The smell and taste of antibiotics now permeates my whole head, and I feel as if I could sleep for a week.
Return from NaNoLand
06 Dec 2011 7 Comments
I have made it through NaNoWriMo very nearly unscathed. I am a winner! Athena got really excited when I told her this, and even more excited that we were going out for dinner to celebrate. She asked me if I had written my novel faster than everyone else, if that’s why I was a winner. I explained that in NaNoWriMo you’re a winner when you finish. She seemed mildly disappointed but regained her high spirits when she asked if we could go to RBT for dinner and I said yes. RBT is home to the large, green-blue, jelly-laden monster of a smoothie that is garnished with popcorn and a sprig of fresh mint.
There is a little gift-wrapping place just outside of the RBT in Book City, one of the countless malls that dots the city, and they had a sign hanging above what looked suspiciously like a printer. The sign said, in English, that they provide business services. Athena and I sauntered over to the desk after our dinner and I pulled out my thumb drive. I awkwardly said, “Nihao,” for that is really the only way to speak Chinese, awkwardly, and then asked in English, “Do you print?” while waving the thumb drive around and pointing at the printer-looking thing. The woman nodded. I handed her the thumb drive and sat down across from her at the desk on this darling little orange swivel stool. Athena sat in the Pink Walmart Stroller next to the stool. The woman plugged the thumb drive in and we bounced our heads around in the universal sign for “Waiting for things to load on the computer.” I glanced down to find that the Pink Walmart Stroller and its occupant had vanished from my side. Swiveling on the stool I located Athena, who was nudging herself along with the toe of one of her Crocs. I got up and pushed her back to the counter. I pointed to the document that I wanted printed on the thumb drive and the woman opened it. It took a while to load. Athena abandoned the stroller and began running laps, sprinting up a ramp and then jumping down the four stairs at the entrance to the mall behind me. The woman’s eyes bulged, threatening to fall right out of her head when she saw the length of the document I wanted to print. She called her colleague over and they spoke to each other for a while about the crazy white woman sitting in front of them. Athena executed another flying leap from the top of the stairs, landing gracefully at the bottom.
“All?” the colleague asked.
“Yes, please,” I nodded.
A flourish of consultation, and then, “Two-sided or one? Because …” and she pointed at the page number (194) in the corner of the document.
“One-sided,” I said confidently, wondering if there is some reverse Heimlich maneuver that one uses to stuff peoples eyes back into their sockets. They gulped and started giggling as the first woman executed the command to print on the computer. The other brought over the first page of the behemoth print job for my appraisal. I nodded approvingly and the women left, giggling inanely, to watch the printer spew out page after page. At one point they both scurried to a cupboard to get another ream of paper, and, giggling nervously, loaded the paper tray with it.
I now have a satisfyingly thick manuscript sitting on the only shelf in the apartment that is too high for Athena to reach, or really even notice.








